![]() A close look at the gouge showed that the sealer had penetrated right through to the steel and sealed it. 14 years later and the rust just hasn't changed except where an engine slid and gouged it through to the steel. I poured the left over sealer on the rust and let it be. I had a steel floored trailer in the yard in which I has kept sand for a while so the floor was very rusty. Yup, you read right.Ībout 14 years ago, I was sealing new concrete in the BBQ area and had some left over. I have done what Darryl (post #7) says and I have used concrete sealer. Found this out on a different restoration. I personally would not use more than 50% lindseed oil in the mix as at higher concentrations it can stay sticky for an extended amount of time. It does a very good job of protecting both. ![]() I used it on the original wood gain sides and metal grain side hardware on my truck. I am a big fan of using this mixture mostly for preserving wood. with your phone number if you like and I can explain better some of the application steps I found worked best for me.īligitn mentions using a 50/50 mix of turpentine and boiled lindseed oil for a finish. Try a small area and see how it turns out for you. I think that in your case just using some 000 or 0000 steel wool and then paste wax would work rather well for your car. I did take the time to "soften" my wire wheels by running them up against a piece of angle iron 1st to make them less agressive. Your right as I didn't have a whole lot of paint left on the truck to start with but the wire brushing didn't remove much of the paint that was left. Would you also recommend Johnson's Paste wax for my car - which appears to have a mix of original, very weathered paint on the fenders, together with body paint that is generally in better condition (and has had light coat recently blown over in some areas (hood and cowl)? I also wish to preserve what I have, but am starting from what appears to be quite a different starting point, compared to your truck. Looks like you didn't have much paint on there to begin with, and probably even less when you'd finished with the wire brush? Your AA has come up really nice, Crosscut. Plus it beads water if I happen to get caught out in the rain. Very easy to maintain and it doesn't smell or attract dust. Most think that I put on some kind of a clear coat. You might just be able to use only the steel wool on yours to polish it up a bit. I used a 4" fine wire wheel on a drill to polish up the rust and followed up with a small fine wood handled wire brush and some 000 steel wool rubbing as needed. You can see the before and after in the pictures. if "better" means more deteriorated looking.I used Johnsons Paste wax on my truck. No regrets, other than the usual desire to make it better next time. ![]() and of course, some amount of "believability". That is why we tried to add lots of "memories" from the sixties, like the scoop. Like you guys, I have always done the opposite of patina paint. I started thinking about "possibilities", and it became an interesting concept to develop. He has shown me he likes unusual ideas, and tells me what he wants to do on this one. Then this established customer comes along, who has a garage full of trophies now, because he stays away from the "generic" builds. except for a couple satin black street rods! It was pretty bad, but since then I have spent a career trying to make things ever more perfect. As I said earlier, I also am a shiny paint guy.
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